424’s Guillermo Andrade on designing football’s first women’s formalwear collection for Arsenal with Hector Bellerin
The first time I stepped into 424 on Fairfax seems like yesterday, rather than almost a decade ago. I was a regular visitor and loiterer of the cult jewellery shop-turned-streetwear powerhouse during my college days. The boutique’s dim but cosy ambiance offered me the perfect getaway from the chaotic shopping mecca and the rolling roar of grinding skateboards of the neighbourhood’s most affectionate dwellers. Its modest storefront looked nothing like the jewellery shops on Rodeo Drive, where big diamonds and gold sparkled under the Californian sun. Conversely, tinted windows blocked the gaze of shoppers, giving off curious vibes – like a private club.
There one day, while parlaying on the baroque sofa, I encountered Guillermo Andrade for the first time. His long, silky tresses and composed demeanour recalled those of the South American footballers that made the history of Serie A in the 90s, so it goes without saying — we bonded over futbol. Hailing from Guatemala and settling in Los Angeles after being displaced from his family, Andrade found his faith and fandom in London’s Arsenal FC. His passion for football has always intersected his practice as a designer and entrepreneur, creating pieces with the contemporary sportsman in mind.
Nowadays, it isn’t unusual to bump into an NBA player, a football star, or a Billboard top 50 artist at 424. The shop hosts a wide array of local brands, as well as Andrade’s namesake collection, where he unleashes his full creativity and bridges his passions – football and fashion – with the help of an exceptional middleman: Hector Bellerin. Bellerin, who recently unveiled a newly shaved head on Instagram, played a major role in this new collaboration between 424 and Arsenal and made a point to treat the club’s men’s and the women’s sides the same, allowing the first ever formalwear partnership with a female-focused silhouette and sponsorship to happen.
‘Everything started at our studio in Italy, where we spent a couple of days to sit and talk about all the important aspects of this partnership,’ explains the designer, when I open our dusty iPhone chat to get the low-down on this collaboration. During our conversation, Andrade reiterates that putting the women’s team at the same level of men’s was a top priority for the collaboration, as well as finding the most comfortable solutions to suit the needs of the female athletes. ‘We decided that Bellerin would have an open conversation with a few of the women who felt comfortable communicating the team’s perspective and wishes when it comes to a formalwear partner.’ He did with the men’s team, his teammates. ‘We took comments and engineered them to create a final product that both the club and 424 would be proud of’.
As well as working with the most experienced artisan tailors and patternmakers, gathering as much data as possible was crucial for the success of the partnership. Andrade made it a point to fly from California into London for every fitting and tailoring session to be as close as possible to the girls and to absorb their impressions. The choice of trousers over a skirt, sneakers rather than a classic heel shoe, and a tie versus no tie were decisions made to honour the requests received by the team, without disrupting Arsenal’s heritage.
When asked about the challenges faced in the development of the garments, the designer thanked the extensive research he has been putting into 424’s main collection as a catalyst for the knowledge acquired and channelled into this opportunity. ‘The process taught me a lot as we had to follow a shape-try-refine routine over and over’, he admits, ‘reshuffling the traditional with relaxed fits suiting unisex style is what I like to do.’
458 Likes, 1 Comments - Guillermo Andrade (@guillermoandrade) on Instagram: "@leahwilliamsonn 424AFC !"
The designer’s star-studded Instagram feed is a window into his fashionable achievements and friendships, leaving his fans to dream about the next drop and wanting more from behind the scenes. I, too, fell victim to his social media tactics when I came across an image of him fitting SEASON zine issue 06 cover star Leah Williamson in his Instagram stories. ‘The photo with Leah comes from one of the first fittings at the training ground. I posted it on my Instagram as a sneak-peek of what was to come for Arsenal women.’ At the time, to fulfil my curiosity, Andrade told me to look out for the suit at home games and formal team appearances, after the team debuted it at the 2020 FA Women’s League Cup Final against Chelsea.
424 is the first designer brand to sponsor the team, or in fact any women’s football team – so the burden on its shoulders is heavy. So far, the feedback has been positive and everybody involved is proud of being part of the journey. The project brought Andrade closer to the women’s game, showing him that there was no difference between them and the men’s side of the club he’s loved for such a long time. The female Gunners have made him an honorary member of the club, allowing him to feel accepted as part of the team. ‘It feels great!’ he smiles.
This unique collaboration will see a range of women-focused items that focus on making the girls feel comfortable and strong while representing the club. For now, the collection will stay exclusive to the players, with more pieces dropping for them when the season resumes. Stay tuned.
While we wait for more, here’s some exclusive behind-the-scenes footage of Bellerin wearing his creative director hat with some of the women’s team.
Words: Naomi Accardi
Photography: Hector Bellerin